Alta

Final phase of our trip involves two special people whose acquaintance with us is one of those improbables that make life so unpredictably fascinating.

I do not recall when I first met Peter Fuss.  I am sure it was through the agency of my friend Tom, who was taking Peter’s philosophy class at UMSL, back in the late 70s or early 80s.  Time has mushed together around certain things and I can’t pinpoint occurrence with the accuracy I’d like.  I’ve never been able to keep a journal (with the exception of this blog) so I have no notation anywhere of when we first met, but it was not memorable.

Gradually, however, a circle of associates accrued of which I became first a peripheral part and then later a more central element around informal discussions of philosophy, semantics, literature, and other related subjects.  Peter was always an anchor member of these groups.  These I can say with some accuracy that we began to attend regularly from 1986 on and they took many forms.  Membership shifted as much as interest, but always there was Peter and his colleague, John, with whom Peter had been working for years on a translation of the works of Hegel.

There were artists, lawyers, social workers, writers, and students.  We broke off from attending for some years, then rejoined in the late 90s at the behest of another acquaintance.  At that time, the group had settled into a long and deep reading of James Joyce’s Ulysses, which at first I thought would be drudgery, but turned out to be amazing.  We stayed on to do Dante—the Commedia—which we finished a couple years ago.

Peter had by then long since divorced one woman and had remarried, to Nan, with whom he now lives atop a four thousand foot hummock northeast of Sacramento on 20 acres of forested land.  Nan teaches tax law.  Both of them are urbane, sophisticated people, the last sorts I would have expect to embrace a rural life, but they’re thriving on it.

Peter In His Lair
Peter In His Lair

They’re building a nice house, they have two terrific dogs—Billie and Rikki—and are surrounded by right wingers.  This is a part of California much dedicated to a conservative view which we from the Midwest tend to think of as our own local, homegrown politics, but in some respects we’re amateurs.  Peter and Nan, plus one or two others, seem to be the sole torchbearers for liberalism in the area.

Even so, they’re happy there, and it is difficult to argue.  Where they live, you can see all the stars, and a drive to town takes you through great beauty.  They welcomed us into this retreat and hosted us for four days.  We took a drive with them down to Placerville where stands the Other Winery we loved (Boger) and spent a cool afternoon drinking good wine and eating a late lunch and discoursing.  (I suspect I have never just “talked” with Peter, we have always discoursed.)

 

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We met up with some of their neighbors for a short tour through part of the area, into more lovely scenery.  IMG_1990

Within this roughly fifty square miles we found a variety of landscapes and climates.  Donna took walks with Billie and Rikki, Peter and I caught up on whatever we found worth catching up on, and the four of us discussed everything from local foods, the economy, international law, and esoteric spiritualism  I burned through the balance of the chip in my camera and I now have enough images to keep me busy in Photoshop for months.

In some ways, this trip recapitulated our first major vacation together back in 1984.  We attended our first Worldcon, L.A.Con II (Gordon R. Dickson was the guest of honor and the Star Wars trilogy had finally been released in its entirety) and afterward, in order to cleanse soul of all that we went to Estes Park in Colorado and wandered around the mountains for a few days.

On our last day, as we were getting ready to go out to dinner, the dogs ran off.  Nothing that unusual, but their timing was terrible and we spent an hour or more trying to get them back.  They finally came to the house, Nan fed them, and we went to dinner.

IMG_1981 IMG_1977Upon our return, Rikki (to the left here), the smaller of the pair, didn’t seem to be doing so well.  Nan nestled the dog in her lap, but something wasn’t right.

Nan called the vet, who instructed her to keep a watch and if Rikki worsened, bring her in.  Hmm.  That would entail a drive down the barely-graded road, upon which there were no lights, at night.  It was a bumpy ride in daylight.  Well.

So we put in the movie we’d all decided to watch—To Have and Have Not—and about an hour in, Nan decided Rikki was worse.  The dog really was magnificently lethargic, barely responsive to what was going on around her.  Nan bundled her up and took off.

We finished the movie.

At one in the morning Nan poked her head into the bedroom to tell us Rikki would be fine, evidently she’d gotten into a thicket of wild marijuana and eaten…too much.

Day came, time to leave.  Peter took us to breakfast in town one last time, and then we headed for Sacramento.

This trip is too full.  We’ll be able to sort through the memories for years without running out of the wonder and pleasure.  All of which was prompted by the call to reunion at the beginning by our friends Nicola and Kelley, of whom I have written before and will no doubt write again.  (Today is September 4th and we received a notice from them a few weeks back that they intend to get married today, because, where they live, they now can.  They wanted us there, but it’s just not possible.  We were there at their joining ceremony 20 years ago in Atlanta.  So let me take a moment, as I write this, to wish them congratulations and as much joy and wonder in the next 20 as they had in the previous—more, in fact.)  The reunion was tremendous and the journey after was one of our best.

Life is good.

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Wine

Departing Crescent City, we headed north.  As previously mentioned, we continued passing through some remarkably beautiful country.  The road was a bit twisty, but nothing like the semi-harrowing drive across the mountains on 36, and we managed to make several stops to indulge my need to photograph.  (Really, sometimes I think the best way to do one of these trips is to walk.  Sometimes every twenty feet there’s something new, something seductively photogenic.  Not all of it comes out as well as you initially thought it would, but…)

Passing into Oregon, the road leveled out, the land flattened a bit.  Presently we came to a collection of buildings—gas station, shops, etc—called Cave Junction.  As we neared the major intersection, a sign appeared.

Bridgeview Winery  4 miles →

Donna veered off the road, onto the parking lot of the gas station/convenience store, bounded over to the new road, and headed east.

A bit of history.  Back in 2001 we did out first major west coast visit, flying into Oakland, renting a car, and driving up to Seattle, meandering along the way.  It was a marvelous, magical trip.  This current trip was partly intended to fill in some of the gaps of what we missed that time.

Anyway, after one particularly long day of driving (in Oregon) we stumbled into a hotel (somewhere) as twilight was coming on, tired and hungry.  Across the parking lot was a Marie Callendar Restaurant.  (Yes,  just like the one we stopped at in Eureka.)  Donna likes to tease me about being surprised that such a thing exists.  Unlike me, she actually read the box one of their frozen dinners came in, so she was aware that the franchise began as a chain of restaurants on the west coast.  I was surprised that first time, but no longer, but people in the midwest usually are surprised, and I like to play to that.  What did surprise me about that first experience was (a) the quality of the food and (b) their house wine was superb.  I mean, really good.

It was Bridgeview.  We’ve subsequently added Bridgeview to our list of preferred wines when we have a chance to restock our cellar (modest as it is).

So here we were rumbling down a narrow road on the way to that (we hoped) very winery, a gift of serendipity.

Of course, it wasn’t four miles straight down the road.  We turned south onto an even narrower road, and came finally to sprawling vineyards and a gate:

IMG_1887We drove into a lovely compound with a lake, wildlife, and a menagerie of impressive brass sculptures—eagles, mainly (though they lacked one thing to make their diving attack poses work to best effect: targets)—and it turned out we were the only visitors so far that day.  We did a tasting, hosted by an enthusiastic woman who checked to make sure we could still find Bridgeview in Missouri, and waxed eloquent about their new vintages.  (They now bottle a Gevurtstraminer that I think my mother would like—she prefers them sweet.)

I was a little disappointed to see that they have now gotten so big that they’re putting product in boxes.  Not that there’s anything precisely wrong with that, but…

But the sampling was excellent.  They have a fine Pinot (dark and white) and their signature cab was as good as we remember.

IMG_1889We bought a couple bottles to enjoy with our friends in Alta in a couple of days, then drove back up to the highway and continued on.

The landscape can change dramatically sometimes, but now it was a gradual shift from shady roads to higher mountain and then, finally, reaching I-5, which was pretty much near the crest of the chain.

The day was hot and although our air-conditioner functioned admirably, a few hours constant driving under cloudless skies wore on us.  Also, long sections of the highway were paved in such a way that the road noise penetrated our bones.  I could barely hear anything Donna said.  It gnawed on our nerves and by the time we got just north of Redding we were frazzled.  We paused at one more rest stop before the final leg into Redding, and there Donna made a special moment with the seabirds that came this far inland for tourist forage.  She had a bag of Doritos and conducted a gathering flock in an elegant little dance.

 

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We drove the rest of the way into Redding.  Between the road and the heat, we weren’t going much farther.  At the first exit with a hotel sign, we pulled off and found a Fairfield Inn squirreled away in an industrial court.  Donna wanted a room and food, the sooner the better.

I walked up to the counter and inquired about a vacancy.  “Absolutely.  We have a king.”  She looked at me.  “You aren’t a member of AARP, are you?  No, of course not.”

“I’m not, but I qualify.”

She blinked. “If you were, I could give you the senior discount. But…you aren’t even fifty, are you?”

“Fifty-eight.”

“No!”

I produced my ID.  “Well, you sure take care of yourself!  Tell you what, I’ll give it to you anyway.”

I unloaded the car quickly and asked about food.  Dill’s Deli was right across the road.  I ushered Donna into a very open space that was more cafeteria than regular dining, but it smelled good and the portions were ample.

Sitting there, however, I became aware of the signage.  Even the napkin holder at our table boasted a very pro-NRA affiliation. FOX News was on the monitors and it just felt like a somewhat right of center place, but when you’re tired and hungry, what’s the difference?  It was barbeque and it was good.

That night was the first time since we’d landed that we watched any television.  I channel-surfed and found a local show, guitarist Ed Ballantine hosting a blues pianist in discussion and some jams.  In some ways it felt like we’d experienced a good weekend all in that day.

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Sacramento 2013_0136“Good night, Donna.”

 

 

“Good night, Mark.”

Northward

After driving out of the redwoods, we continued north to Crescent City.  Coming in, evening fog roiled off to our left, along the coastline.  We passed a wood art shop on the right that looked intriguing and we promised ourselves a visit after we found a place to crash.

What we found was the dubiously-named Bay View Inn.  I say dubious because, while theoretically the bay was within sight, the mist was so thick you really couldn’t see it.  I asked for a room with a view and we got one, but it wasn’t what we expected.  Ah, well, it was a spacious room for a reasonable price.Sacramento 2013_0131

What most occupied our minds was food, which we found within walking distance.  A local place, with good basic grub, and pleasantly informative waitress who told us which the best route would be to get back to I-5.

“Don’t do 299.  Not unless you like stop and go and lots of waiting.  Take 199.”

Which would take us into Oregon.  Ah, well.  In the morning we walked around a bit, waiting for the gift shop next to the hotel to open.

IMG_1850Which had this bizarre feature.  We could see it from the hall window in the hotel and speculated on what it might be.  Finally, after buying some gifts for friends, I asked.

The original building had been a barge that offered a traveling water show.  That tower gave light into the on board aquarium.  When they established it permanently on land, they kept it as a landmark.

It made for an interesting image, at least.

After a pretty decent breakfast, we headed back out to the wood art shop.  A lot of it was the standard fare you find in many places—birds, cute plackards, bears, a lot of it obviously mass-produced even though lovely in execution.  But out front was a striking and motley collection of original pieces done by a local artist whose name we failed to get.  (Duh.  Val Polyanin.)

 

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Several of the pieces were social commentary of some sort, a few with obviously cosmic import.  The style was impressive and in some ways repulsive at the same time.  You would need a large space in which to display some of them, as they would wholly dominate any modest space.

 

 

 

 

 

After that, we hit the road again, north.  And once again we found ourselves driving through lushness.

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A short way into Oregon, we stumbled on a treat.  Stayed tuned, the adventure continues!

Giants

Sequoias, I’ve heard, are bigger.

Still.

Redwood Stand, July 2013

They almost dare you to photograph them in some unique way, as if knowing that, at least at first, you can’t help but shoot the standard-issue, clichéd image of immense stands of imposing forest.  Walking among them I didn’t feel small so much as unimportant.

That’s something of a cliché as well, but it fits.

We left the Elk River center, drove up 101 a short way, passing another beach, through mist and gray that separated where we were from anywhere else we might go.Sacramento 2013_0075

We stopped at the shore, walked between burms of sand, spent time in the non-place of fog and suggestion.  Donna took this image of me walking toward a horizon invisible and remade constantly.  Isolated as it was, the world shifted and altered.

Time to go inland, then.  Time to find the next stretch of imagination-rich landscape for our memories to feast on.  Time to move further into segments of separated repositories of quiet beauty.

People drove by as we pulled off the road, racing from nowhere to elsewhere, not stopping (how could they not stop? Look at what’s here!), leaving us—and a few others who knew the moment—to bask in the details left lying around by happenstance and million-year evolutionary exuberance.  Sure, there was a road through it, but that was its own delight.

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We didn’t hurry, but neither did we linger too long.  We had a very specific goal on this trip, something left over from the last visit to these parts.  Circumstances had forced us then to choose between the redwoods and Crater Lake.  In 2001, we chose Crater Lake.  Now we have come back to see the Other.

The Others.

We drove into the preserve on an ascending road that wrapped around the base of a rise.  Here, fog did not intrude.  Late morning, the sun speared through the canopy, picking out details in such fractal abundance the whole was all you could really see clearly.  There was parking lot at the side of a footbridge over the road leading to the trail.

In stillness that seemed only recently broken by music, the echoes of ancient rhythms twined around the enormous fingers stretched toward light and air, we walked and stopped and walked again and pointed things out to each other and walked and gaped.

Gnarls in Redwood,  b&w, July 2013

Redwood Trunk, July 2013

Redwood Bark Detail, July 2013

The trail was about a mile.  There were bugs, of course, little stinging pests, but for the most part it was one of the easiest trails I’ve ever walked.  Every turn brought something extraordinary.

We left this preserve and took a scenic byway through more of the magnificence.IMG_1838

As we drove between curtain walls of the ancient forest, we passed a family stretching out around the base of one of the bigger trees, one of their number stepping back into the road to take the picture.  Donna pulled over, suggesting I ask if they wanted someone else to take it so they could all be in it together.  I sprinted back and just as they were breaking up to return to their cars, I called out and offered.  They regrouped happily, hand in hand, against the tree and I shot pictures with two of their cameras.  (I didn’t know them, I thought it would be impertinent to take a picture for myself.)

One of them hurried to her car, telling me to wait.  She handed me a pile of silver-foiled Hershey kisses.  “That’s where we’re from,” she said, grinning.

“Hershey, Pennsylvania?”

“Yep.  Been a long drive, but boy, was it worth it.”

I couldn’t agree more.  Standing amid these epic trees, you start to feel like a giant yourself, for the simple reason that you can see them for the marvelous things they are.  For a short while they seem to lend you a bit of their grandeur.

Eureka and Beyond

Staggering (almost literally) into Eureka that Monday night saved our nerves.  Oddly, we usually have one day like this on a road trip in which anxiety creeps up to a certain level (because we don’t know where we are and the directions we thought we had proved unreliable) and tension rises.  We get through it and afterward it’s as if we’ve purged all the bad joss that might otherwise infect the balance of the trip.  Such was our drive over the mountains from Platina to Eureka.

Picking a hotel because of a chain restaurant might also seem arbitrary, but part of the fun of these is to be arbitrary.  Besides, our memory of that first encounter with Marie Callender back in 2001 has remained vivid.  (Of course, we were also then pretty strained from the road, so…)

IMG_1701(That first dinner we were served a very fine Oregon wine, Bridgeview, which plays into this trip later on.  It was a surprisingly good wine for a chain.)

The room was nice enough that we considered spending another night there and using it as base from which to do exploring. Unfortunately it was already booked, so we packed up and headed north.

One of the things fascinating about this part of the country is what I call micro-climates.  Eureka is right on the coast and from the time we arrived to when we finally left it was encased in a heavy mist.  Three or four blocks inland and the sun blazed, the sky was cloudless, and the temperature went up noticeably.  We drove through these variations for the rest of the trip up the coast.

IMG_1732We turned off onto a beach, which, though public, possessed an air of isolation.  A few people already there huddled some distance from where we walked, and a single runner came by.

Moving on, we eventually turned into one of the wildlife centers to get some directions for actually getting into  the redwoods, which we seemed to be driving by but weren’t actually passing through.

Donna's #1 (California, 7-13)Obtaining a map and some directions, looking over the exhibits, and stretching our legs, we were ready to go look at the Giants we’d come to see.

Back in 2001, we had a number of goals, one of which was to hit the coast and see the redwoods.  Well, right off that’s kind of a misrepresentation—which The Redwoods?  They’re strung all along the coast in a number of preserves and national and state parks.  The one we chose was the Lady Bird Johnson National Forest, which offers a one mile trail in the midst of some spectacular woodland.  As a sample…

Donna's #3 (California, 7-13)

 

More later.

36

Having turned away from the traffic jam on 20, we drove back the few miles to I5.  We’d intended to skip this highway since we’d driven it before and wanted to take new roads.  Well, we figured, we’d still take a new road.

Just up 5 is the town of Red Bluff.  Heading west from there is highway 36, which goes through the mountains.  Or over, depending on your point of view.  We looked at a map, thought “sure, we can stop atPlatina for the night and cross over in the early morning.”

Heh.

We should probably have stopped in Red Bluff, which seemed to be a charming little place with hotels, restaurants, local color, all on display as we cut through it and boldly set out on 36.

On The Road, July 2013It was just too early to check in, there was plenty of sunlight, and our final destination on this leg was supposed to be Eureka.  So we rolled along the two-lane, which began winding.  And winding.

And winding past some terrific scenery, which at the beginning we gleefully stopped often to photograph.

 

 

From highway 36, July 2013

 

 

Eroded Bluff, b&w, July 2013

 

We rolled into Platina, though, only to find a general store, a gas station, and one visible blacktop lined with houses.  Stopping for cold drinks, we asked about accommodations.  The woman behind the counter looked at us in a combination of amazement and pity.

“Nothing here.  But up the road about eight miles or so is Bridgeville, they got a motel.  But really, you got plenty of daylight, you might make it all the way over before dark.”

Mountaintop out of Bridgeville, July 2013With those encouraging words, we drove on.  Bridgeville was a bit further than eight miles.  We almost missed it.  We drove over a bridge, yes, but aside from the sign for the town all we saw were three people out walking their dogs and pushing a strolled.

“No, the hotel closed down last year some time,” one of them told us.  “Best bet is to head for Fortuna.”

Fortuna lay on the other side of the range.  We stopped to assess.

Fortuna, July 2013The entire winding drive on highway 36 had been an exercise in frustration.  Speed limit signs told us we could go 55, but twenty feet on was a warning to take the next set of curves at 25.  On top of which, instead of the Corolla which we’d requested, we’d gotten a Mazda 3.  (I know, rental agencies cannot guarantee a specific model, and they use car type as a rough guide, assuming all cars of a certain size and engine capacity are the same.  They’re not.)  Donna wasn’t familiar enough with the Mazda to ignore the warnings, so a two hour drive turned into three-plus, and by the time we descended into Fortuna we were both a bit weary and eager for a straight road.

We tanked up and asked for directions to a motel.  Vague handwaving took us down a road that led to a motel in the classic sense—a long row of rooms attached to a glass-fronted check-in.  As we pulled in, though, I note a number of semis and several doors open, the guests socializing, beers in hand, and music playing from either a truck or one of the rooms.  When I was told the price for the night, I spun around and went back to the car.

“We keep going.”

Road-toasted as she was, Donna continued on.  We ended up on highway 101, where we’d originally intended to be at the start of the day.  “Let’s just head for Eureka,” said.

She nodded.  At least the road was straight.

As we pulled into Eureka, we found ourselves on motel row.  A buffet of options.

“That one!” Donna said suddenly.  “The Best Western.”

“Okay. Why?”

“There’s a Marie Callendar restaurant next to it.”

We’d found Marie Callendar on our first trip to California in 2001.  In the midwest we know nothing of this.  Here, Marie Callendar is no more than a selection of frozen dinners at the supermarket.  Out here, though, there’s a chain of restaurants.  And pretty good ones for a chain.

The Best Western room cost more, but it didn’t matter.  Clean room, comfortable bed, and by quarter of ten we were sitting in a booth in the restaurant for basically our first meal of the day since breakfast.

After that, bed.  Just…bed.

 

Along 20

We had a plan.  It seemed at first the gods of traffic were arrayed against us.

We flew into Sacramento to attend a reunion, a convention, and start the next part of our vacation, which entailed renting a car and heading for the redwood forests along the northern California coast.  We’d missed these on our previous trip to the area (2001) and vowed to come back one day to fill in the gap.

Everything went smoothly until we began to encounter the Other Season in California.  (There are two seasons, we were told—winter and road construction.)  We intend to take I5 to 101 and head north to Eureka.  Well, right before the airport, traffic had come to a halt on 5.  We were close  enough, so we doglegged up 99.  At Yuba, we turned west onto highway 20, which should have taken us by Clear Lake, around the lower tip of the mountains, and into 101.

Just before Clear Lake, traffic had come to halt.  People had shut off their engines.

It’s possible had we waited another ten minutes, we might have gotten through.  But we didn’t want to sit there, in increasing heat, staring at the back ends of semis and SUVs.  Where we were stuck was one of the least picturesque points along that stretch of highway.

So we turned around, went back to I5 and headed north for Red Bluff.

But the drive along 20—pleasantly winding and meandering—afforded opportunity for some interesting photography.

Rolling Hills, Towers, CA, b&w, July 2013

 

Along 20, July 2013

 

Sunflowers & Mountain, July 2013